"The thought that my life could end at any moment frees me to full appreciate the beauty and art and horror of everything this world has to offer."
England ; Latter half of the 14th Century.
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I recently decided I wasn't happy with the two previous linen coifs I previously had made in the past, so I realized it was high time to make a new one - a far more accurate one! Since my newest Medieval project is going to be that of the 12th Century, I decided to build one that would work for that period, although this style is consistent with coifs worn by men throughout the Medieval Period. This particular article will specifically cover the process that went into producing the coif, rather than the style and its history, which will follow at a later date. Step 1: To start, I used a very nice vintage hand-woven linen acquired from a friend. Due to the size, a simple two-piece coif and the ties can usually be made from scrap from bigger projects, which makes sourcing the fabric much easier. The linen is super soft and is of very nice quality. I opted for a two-piece style which is consistent with most styles seen in period artwork throughout the duration of the Medieval Period. Some three-piece styles were seen in later works, but two-piece designs with a seam down the center across the top and down the back seems most common for the period we are doing. During the 12th Century in particular, artwork seems to show these coifs with squared or rounded "ear flap" tips that terminate at the jaw with a separate tie affixed underneath. Because of this, I opted to go with this style for this recreation. I cut the two halves of the coif with my measurements (usually taken by measuring from the forehead to the nape of the neck with some other tweaking to determine how far forward on the face it will reach, etc.). The two pieces are then pinned together across the top and down the back of the head - the same location the central seam will be placed. Step 2: For step two, I began the sewing process. To sew this garment, I used locally-sourced hand-spun linen thread. Because real, natural linen thread is much coarser and thicker than what we are used to with modern threads, it usually needs to be waxed before use. I do this by cutting the strand I plan on using and then dragging it between a beeswax block and my thumb a few times along its length. Once it is properly waxed, it's time to start sewing. You can use a simple running stitch, however, I used a running backstitch for this particular project. It has been found to have been used during this time and speeds the process up much quicker. Once it's completed, it should look as the final photo at the bottom of this step. One side will have a nice, neat running stitch while the other will look a little chunkier, but never mind this, it'll be covered by your seam treatments soon enough! Step 3: Once you have finished the base of the seam, now you need to treat it to prevent fraying. Again, for the sake of time expediency - as well as the fact it was a treatment that existed at the time and is one of the most durable, which is needed for a working garment such as this - I decided to go with a flat-felled seam. You can honestly use any kind of treatment that catches your fancy, but I prefer this the best, plus it also works well with the curve of the seam without bunching too much! To start this process, you will need to flip your coif over to the side with the chunkier stitches and cut it down at the halfway mark. This will be the encased side of the seam and will ensure the prettier-stitched side will be the visible one. Step 4: After you have trimmed the inner side down, you will need to fold the outer side into the halfway cut, and then over again so that the entire side, as well as the chunky stitches are totally encased inside the outer one. There are some handy videos on how to do this on YouTube, as well! As you fold these over, pin them into place and you're ready to start sewing it down! Step 5: The fifth step involves sewing down the treatment. I use a nice hidden overcast stitch (which also goes by several other names), which is done by taking the needle and going through the inner folded edge you're sewing down, and then picking up only two or so threads on the outer "shell" of the garment, then you come back through and back through the folded edge and repeat. This not only makes a very nice, sturdy seam, but ensures it's not super visible on the outside of the garment, as well! Step 6: Now it's time for hemming. I do a simple rolled hem for the edges on this in which I fold them over a couple of times, pin them down, and the use the same hidden overcast stitch at the seam. Now, if you have rounded "points" on yours, this may require some tweaking, as I fully intended to do rounded ones for mine, however, when I started the hemming process they became too narrow and had to be squared off, so if you are dead-set on rounded ones, you may need to play around with them first to see what works best for you! Step 7: So, now that everything has been hemmed except for your points, it's time to complete the ties. For these, I used the same linen as the rest of the coif, though some swear by braided or woven narrow-ware cord for theirs. Personally, there is little historical evidence for which was actually used, so this is left as a matter of discretion. It should be noted, however, that nearly every depiction of a coif being worn by a man in Medieval art shows it being tied under the chin, not hanging loose, so be sure to use a technique that you will be comfortable tying under your chin for long periods of time! I cut these in strips 1" wide by a few long. The length will entirely be determined by how much you need to reach from the coif's point to however far it needs to to be tied comfortably. Once they are cut, they are folded into fourths with the raw edges being encased inside, like a tube. Pin this as you go. Total once pinned and sewn mine measure just shy of 1/4" in width, which I've found is thick enough to be durable and not rip or tear, but still thin enough to be tied and not be cumbersome or uncomfortable. Step 8: Now that the ties are pinned, they are to be sewn. I used a tight whip-stitch along the open edge of the ties. By using a thread similar to what these are woven from, as well as a very sturdy, tight stitch, the thread almost becomes part of the tie, rather than just a binding holding it together. It is important to use a fine thread for this as too coarse will cause the ties to chafe the chin and neck when tied tightly. Be sure when you reach the ends on either piece to turn one end inside on itself to create a hem for the loose ends. This can be a bit tricky and take some getting used to, but once done well can appear seamless. Note, the ties will probably twist a little. This is unavoidable due to the weave and stitch used, but once pressed and worn a few times they should straighten out. After this, they can be simply whip-stitched inside to the inner edges of the points in any angle or location you see as comfortable. Since everyone's neck and face shape is different, this is more of personal comfort or preference. Step 9: Now you are almost done! Now is the time to press out all your seams and hems. A hot iron can work, however, I used a more historical method of just using elbow grease and friction! Historically, many items would have used a hot smoothing or pressing stone, especially in lower income households, however, since I don't have one of those, I used a modern pressing stick, which did the job all the same! And with that you're all done! In nine easy steps you can have an even-ready, historically-accurate Medieval men's linen coif!
Common example of a 14th Century men's shoe with the side-lace closure. Though not based on any specific extant example, this style of shoe is regularly seen in period artwork, and the features documented on many surviving examples from both England, as well as mainland Europe.
The shoe is made with a thick cow hide lower, with a thinner goat leather upper and lace. The components were dyed black using a mixture of iron and vinegar, as seems to have been a technique in use for coloring leather such colors during this time. While seemingly odd and dangerous to our modern sensibilities, wearing the dagger less the sheath, and thrust directly into the belt seemed to be a common practice during the 14th Century, as is noted by several works depicting such.
This may have been done as a show of force (aka intimidation), to make the weapon more accessible in the presence of less-than-trustworthy folk, or simply as a martial fashion symbol. Typical pair of 14th Century men's wool separate-leg Hosen. The Hosen are made in the fashion as men's Hosen for the past few-hundred years with two separate legs that pull up and are pointed (tied) to the linen Braies (underwear) at the waist. The Hosen come to points at the top of make this easier. They are cut along the bias (at an angle along the fabric) to take advantage of the stretchy nature of the wool twill which ensures a tight, snug fit on the legs. They bear feet, as well. By the end of the 14th Century, this style would have begun to evolve into Hosen which were at first joined in the back and left open in the front, and later, joined totally, coming full-circle back into form-fitted trousers.
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AboutThis page will focus on the lifestyles of those living in Medieval Europe from approximately the 11th Century through the 14th. Archives
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