In the freezing Danish winter, layers are key to surviving any length of time outdoors.
Haithabu, Current-Day Germany ; Latter half of the 10th Century. Location: Haithabu, Current-Day Germany Date: Approx. 10th Century Culture: Viking Age Danish Estimated Social Class: Unknown Garment Type: Wool Vest / Jerkin Perhaps one of the most overlooked garments from the Viking Age settlement of Hedeby, the fragments of the wool jerkin, or 'Lodenwams' as it is referred to in German, offers a great deal of insight and mystery into the complex fashion of 10th Century Denmark. In this article we will look at the vest's original construction, how it was likely used, and how the reproductions of today may give us further information on the daily lives and fashion sense of the people living at Hedeby. At the current time, nothing resembling the Lodenwams is accounted for in the historical fashion information of the time, both in literature, nor artwork, so our basis as to what this garment is or how it was used is a mystery - all we know is that it existed, and fragments recovered from Haithabu also seem to indicate that these were a fashion staple, as we will look further into later in the article. The fact that the garment is so heavily overlooked in Hedeby's often mysterious fashion complex, usually overshadowed by more famous - and slightly similar - items like the Klappenrock, means much of the speculation done as to the garment's use is done privately, rather than in an academic or museum setting, therefore, most of the information given within this article, aside from the descriptions and construction observations of the fragments themselves, is purely speculative. The Original Fragments At the current time, a good number of fragments have been attributed to a Lodenwams-type garment in Haithabu, and all of these are noted in detail in Inga Hägg's work, "Textilfunde aus Haithabu". The aforementioned fragments are as follow: 5, 7, 13, 30, 46, 53 A & B, 63, 81, and 85. Unfortunately, many of these are heavily fragmentary, and likewise, only a few of the largest and most notable were discussed and detailed at length in Hägg's book. While there are many examples of 'roughened' (as Hägg puts it) and felted garment fragments from Haithabu, Hägg seems to put a specific emphasis on a particular style of roughened wool textile that notes it as belonging to that of the jerkin / Lodenwams type, which in fact, the name "Lodenwams" notes the specific style of almost hard, felted wool used for these garments, usually referred to as "Loden" in German-speaking sources. Therefore, a disclaimer should be noted here that while many of these fragments will appear to belong to any number of clothing styles from the area, these have all been seen to bear the same textile properties in common, therefore, it has been assumed they are all of the same garment stock. To begin, we will start with the smaller fragments, and to begin with that we can look no further than at Fragment 5. The piece is of a the Loden-style wool, woven in a 2/2 twill. It appears to be undyed and is a natural brown color. Though small, it does seem to bear the rounded armhole hem of a sleeveless, felted garment, a trend which will continue as we look further at more of these fragments. Fragment 7 appears to be the lower hem of a similarly constructed garment. Again, also of a Loden-style felted 2/2 twill, it bears a rounded, curved lower hem of a rolled construction. It is noted as being very heavily worn, though traces of the original rolled and overcast-stitched hem are still present. Hägg also observes that the shape and size of the hemmed area indicates it was likely a shorter garment which ended above the hips, meaning it was likely worn over a longer tunic-style article of clothing. Traces of stitching at the outer edges also could be an indication that these were hemmed and the garment bore side slits up a small portion of the lower half. It also appears to be of a natural, undyed color, as well. Fragment 13 is relatively unremarkable, however, the heavily felted piece of coarse 2/2 wool twill does bear a series of stitches and a slightly curved edge at one side, likely meaning it was the opening hem of an open-front garment. Fragment 30 is also ambivalent as to its original use, however, it is also of a coarse 2/2 twill and has curved hems or seams on the outer edges. Due to the style of textile used, and the fact there are little signs of wear, means this may have been part of a very well-tailored variant of the jerkin or vest design, possibly one intended to be used by a more well-to-do member of Hedeby society, or a nicer one made specifically for the trading market Hedeby was known for that simply never made it to said market... Fragment 46 is even more mysterious, there is a seam which connects two layers of fabric present. Initially thought to possibly be that of a dart, it has been noted the two pieces are of different colors, which makes this theory unlikely. Hägg notes that this particular piece of felted 2/2 wool twill may also be that of a hood fragment, as well, though it is unclear. Fragments 53 A and B are perhaps the best examples we have of the Lodenwams style in its original form. The two-part fragment consists of the shoulder and armhole area of a heavily felted garment. Unlike the previous fragments, this particular example is made from a cross-body twill, rather than the 2/2 twill used elsewhere, showing there was a degree of variation to the design being used at this time. The piece clearly shows the hemmed, rounded armhole of a sleeveless garment, which interestingly enough, appears to have been pieced together with a horizontal seam running from the lower edge of the armhole to the outer hem of the garment's opening. While the other seams and hems have long since deteriorated, we can still see that these now torn edges were likely indicative of the garment's original features, meaning it likely bore a shoulder seam and a straight, hemmed front area which was open. Unfortunately, the rest of the pieces are only fragmentary in nature and are therefore mostly unremarkable, featuring an array of scattered stitches and torn edges, with the textile makeup only noting them as being likely candidates as fragments of a Lodenwams-type garment. Hägg does note that three of the fragments were subject to dyestuff analysis, with two of them (fragments 5 and 7) bearing no traces of dyes and are of a natural shade of wool. Fragment 13, however, does bear traces of walnut dyes having been used and was likely either brown or reddish-brown in color. The lack of sophisticated dyes (or lack of dyes altogether), coupled with the heavy wear patterns of some of the fragments seems to indicate that these were intended as working garments, being used either to protect the wearer's more expensive clothing underneath, or worn as an extra warmth layer in the colder winter months. Either way, a clear utilitarian design seems evident, with little emphasis being put on fashion-forwardness or anything bearing an aesthetic nature. The Reconstruction For the reconstruction, we opted to combine the best features of the fragments into a composite garment. Since most of the pieces are very fragmentary at best, we did have to undergo a great deal of filling in the blanks to get a complete image of what this garment may have looked like. The first feature that needed to be determined was the garment's overall shape. By going off Hägg's findings, we knew the vest was likely hip-length at the longest, and was rather short, with seams at the shoulders, wide, open, rounded armholes, a slightly rounded lower rear hem, and possible side slits at the bottom. We decided to construct the garment from felted 2/2 wool twill. Finding 2/2 twill that had the exact level of Loden-style felting as the originals was nigh on impossible, so we had to settle for a slightly less-felted look than was desired, however, the garment does still have the same effect that the likelihood of every one of these having the same exact level of felting is unlikely at best, given Hedeby's large population and propensity at trade and manufacture. The wool is undyed and in its natural color, as most of the fragments also bear, and it was sewn using an undyed wool yarn that matches the same overall weight and thickness as the stitches that remain on the original fragments. In Conclusion To conclude, it is our belief that the garment was that of a working garment or one worn for added warmth in the winter, very similar to the leather jerkins seen as recently as the 20th Century with British Armed Forces use. It bears all the hallmarks of a utilitarian article of clothing, and after extensive outdoor winter trials, has seemed to hold up nicely to the elements and does a decent job of protecting the wearer from the cold, especially when worn in conjunction with a cloak.
A secondary theory to the last as to the jerkin's use is that of a rudimentary textile "armor". While thin, and likely not overly protective, the felted and padded nature of the vest would mean that if worn in conjunction with other wool clothing, the garment could at least stop basic slashing attacks with a knife of spear, much in the way of other forms of textile armors worn before and after the Viking Age. With this said, however, further field tests will need to be undertaken before a complete determination of this theory can be realized. In finishing, it is our opinion that this is a highly underrepresented garment in Haithabu's complex and detailed clothing history, and one that should warrant further research and experimentation. It is widely lacking in most representations of Viking Age Danish clothing and equipment, despite the overwhelming evidence for its use, and it is our opinion that further exploitation and study of its makeup and design can yield even further information on this time and the mindset of 10th Century Danes. Photo & Information Sources
Trying to grab a bit of fresh air outside before heading back into tend the fire.
Haithabu, Current-Day Germany ; Latter half of the 10th Century. Location: Haithabu, Current-Day Germany Date: Approx. 10th Century Culture: Viking Age Danish Estimated Social Class: Lower - Lower-Middle Class Sometimes everything needs to come together to make sense, and in many cases that is none the clearer than in recreating historical and ancient clothing and artifacts. As a piece alone, they can have an interesting quality all their own, but when reconstructed and compiled in their entirety to recreate a complete look is when history really is brought to the modern age! In this article, the first of several "kit guides" that will be posted to the site, we are going to look at the reconstructed clothing and equipment of a lower to lower-middle class Danish farmer or trader from 10th Century Haithabu. This will be a general overview of the items, the majority of which are copied directly from original fragments or complete items from the town or surrounding areas. Since there is a lot of ground to cover in this case, the list will be clear and concise, and any further information on these items can be found in each item's own article devoted to it elsewhere in the site. The image of heavily-armored Nordic Vikings going into battle certainly strikes a since of romance into the hearts of many, however, in most cases, the men of Scandinavia were farmers and traders first, with a very small percentage actually 'going-a-Viking' during the Viking Age. Most would have been poor or middle-class tradesmen who worked specific crafts such as dealing in textiles, livestock, blacksmithing, woodworking, or any of the other uncountable trades needed to keep an Early Medieval community running. As such, while it is certainly entertaining to picture maille-clad warriors out on the town, sword or battle axe in-hand, bringing back hoardes of gold from far-off lands, the reality was far different, and in most cases many may have went their entire lives without ever having even seen a Viking in the flesh. Something that will be delved into more deeply in another article, but should be touched on here, is the difference between a Scandinavian warrior and a Viking. While it is easy to assume every warrior in Early Medieval Scandinavia was a "Viking", they were not. Stating this is the equivalent of saying every man who owned a firearm or fought during America's Colonial Period was a Pirate. While Vikings did play very large roles in their conquests in France, Britain, Spain, Germany, and other regions, it is easy to forget the actual standing armies which were brought to many of these battles, and in some cases, by Scandinavian chiefs, kings, and Jarls to fight against the Vikings themselves. Most of these men were not career warriors, but as stated above, tradesmen. They were farmers, merchants, blacksmiths, etc. who were called upon by their local royalty to fight on their behalf, be it over petty disputes of land, or greater offenses. As such, many came armed only with the clothes on their backs and simple weapons from home. There is a reason the armored, sword-wielding warriors stood out amongst their contemporaries. In many cases, the men fought rarely in massed battles, especially in the cases of trading centers like Hedeby, that didn't see any large-scale war come to it until the 11th Century with Harald Hardrada and his forces. As such, most of the inhabitants there likely enjoyed a rather peaceful life, aside from the typical local conflicts which likely arose from time to time in the forms of criminal enterprises, which are to be expected. With this in mind, we shouldn't expect a lower-class farmer to be bedecked in a helmet, maille shirt, sword, shield, a Langseax, but rather only the essentials needed to defend himself while out working, or his home from unwanted guests - but likely little more. Headwear It does not seem that pre-Christian Pagans living in Denmark (or elsewhere in Scandinavia for that matter) put nearly as large an emphasis on head coverings for men as their Christian descendants would, however, that does not mean such items were nonexistent by any means. Simple hats and even hoods do seem to have been worn at the owner's discretion and even laws were put into place in places like Iceland to protect such wearers from certain crimes involving mistreatment of their chosen head covering. Worn here on top of the head is a pillbox hat, which is comprised of a very simple design of an oval crown and curved rectangular band that connects with a seam in the rear. As per the original fragment from Haithabu, Fragment S35, the piece is made from a 2/2 wool twill. No dye analysis was done on the original fragment to-date, so we are unsure of its original color, so we went with a simple walnut-dyed wool of two shades for this reconstruction. A more complete example of an early Medieval pillbox hat can be found in the Leens, Netherlands find, cataloged as b1930/12.34/1. In addition to the hat, a hood is also worn during foul weather. While the theorized hood fragment from Haithabu has been debated if it is that of a hood at all, we took the fragment and adapted it as one to see how that would work, and the results seem to speak for themselves. The hood is made from a green 2/2 wool twill with heavy felting. Although the original fragment is a reddish-brown color, it is believed this is due to oxidation inside the ground and not actually indicative of its original dyed coloration. The hood features gores in the front and back to open it up so that it will fit around the neck and shoulders. There is also a "liripipe" tail on the back, which if the theories are to be believed, and the fragment does in fact depict a liripipe on the back of the hood, this would be the first example of said feature on a hood until they reappeared as a common fashion staple during the 14th Century! Torso Garments The two primary garments worn on the torso are the wool tunic and the wool jerkin or vest (also referred to in German as the 'Lodenwams'), the former being worn for nearly every occasion. The wool tunic is that of the Hedeby Type I tunic, and is based off fragments 9, 18, 40, 55A, 72C, and 73. Most notably about the tunic is is complex design and fitted form. It has rounded armholes and in-set sleeves with seams that run down the backs of the arms. In addition to this, it also features curved tailoring seams along the back and an array of gores around the lower half for added mobility. This is indicative of a highly sophisticated tailoring trend in Danish fashion at the time and is a far cry from the previously believed loose, baggy, formless tunics thought to be worn by Norse men of the time. The tunic is constructed from a thin plain weave and dyed blue with woad for effect. Our example also shows obvious signs of staining, wear, and repair from use around the farm and shop. In addition to the tunic, for foul or cold weather the woolen 'Lodenwams' jerkin may also be worn. Based off fragments 7 and 53 A & B, this was a sleeveless, robe-like garment made from felted wool that wrapped across the torso for added protection - be it from the elements, or possibly as a very rudimentary form of textile "armor". The fragments were of both plain weave and 2/2 twill with felting and little in the way of dye. As such, due to the variation, we opted to combine the two into a single garment, also made of 2/2 wool twill and left undyed in its natural off-white form. Cloak In addition to the tunic and Lodenwams, a cloak is also worn. These were likely a staple of Viking Age fashion - they had been worn for hundreds (if not thousands) of years prior, and would continue to be worn for many hundreds more. This particular example is made of a very heavily-felted wool that Haithabu's textile finds have come to be known for. It bears a selvedge on three edges and a fringe on the fourth, and has been mostly dyed brown using walnuts, however, there are three faint blue woad-dyed stripes woven in for added and cost-efficient fashion effect. It is closed using a simple bronze cloak pin with a ring at one end. It is simply thrust through the cloak and then tied in place using a thong of deer hide. Leg & Foot Wear For the lower body, trousers would be worn. While separate-leg Hosen were beginning to be introduced to the region, the older-style fashion of joined trousers still seems to clung on a bit longer, likely kept alive by the more rural, traditional of the area, trying to cling on to the last vestiges of their dying culture. The trousers worn here are based off fragments 22 A - C and 39 A and B, and were likely cut in a nearly identical fashion to the much earlier Thorsberg trousers. These featured a tightly-fitted design with an integrated waistband, belt loops, gussets in the front and back for added mobility, and feet. They are made from walnut-dyed brown broken diamond twill, as were the originals, as has been determined through dyestuff analysis. In addition to the trousers, the lower legs are also protected with woolen leg wraps, often referred to as 'Winingas'. The original fragments from Haithabu were in both twill and herringbone weave, the latter of which was used for our reconstruction. They are hemmed straight across on one end and hemmed to a point on the other. No dye analysis was done, so the original colors were left undetermined, however, ours were dyed using onion skins to achieve a rich yellow color. The fastening of these wraps in Haithabu has been discussed and debated, as none of the characteristic hooks have been found to keep them wound here as in other regions, so we went with a conjectural design in a leather thong threaded through the point and tied. While not exactly pretty, it is durable and does the trick nicely. Finally, for the feet are a pair of leather shoes, these being the low-quarter design based off the Shoe Type 1 from Haithabu. These are a low-quarter design with a side-seam and a simple leather thong to tie around the top. They are made from oak-tanned goat hide and are lined with straw and wool scrapping for insulation and comfort - a technique that works surprisingly well, even in sub-zero winter snow! Equipment
A man can wear as much wool as he wants, but without the accessories and equipment to go with it, he can't do his job adequately! As such, even for a simple farmer, certain items are a necessity. A list of these equipment items and accessories is as follow:
Of course, inside the bags and pouches are also necessary goods such as coins, hack silver, beads, fire starting implements, etc., but these will all need to be covered in an article all their own! Spear Finally, as far as weaponry goes, a simple spear will do for our farmer. While items like the sword and battle axe certainly get all the credit, the spear was the true workhorse of nearly any Early Medieval army. They were easy and cost-effective, and quite simple to use, making them ideal for a non-professional "peasant army" consisting of farmers and tradesmen. Our spear here is made of an oak shaft with an iron head fitted to the top. The head is not only secured using an iron rivet, but also by a slathering of pine pitch and finally a grass rope wrapping. It is of hand spear length, meaning it can be used either one-handed - as in the case with a spear and shield combination - or with two hands, making it ideal for situations where versatility is key. |
AboutThis part of the site will look at the various aspects of life on Viking Age Danish people. From what they ate, to how they may have fought. Archives
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