The cloak style worn here is likely representative of styles worn in Denmark during the 10th Century. While earlier cloaks were likely much larger (such as the Thorsberg cloak), there is reason to believe later cloaks during the Viking Age were somewhat smaller in size. This cloak measures approximately 169cm x 102cm with a 3cm fringe on the lower edge and adequately provides cover from shoulder to mid-thigh. It is made from a 2/2 wool twill, which has been heavily felted and fulled on both sides. This technique has been noted on the cloak fragment (Fragment 44 B) from Haithabu as having been done on 2/2 wool twill fabric to create a thicker, warmer textile to repel extreme cold and wind - a technique which tests have shown to work very well. Shown below are fragments 24 A and 34, which show the fulling process in its complete form. In addition to being fulled, the cloak has also been dyed dark brown using walnut hulls (juglans regia). Using walnuts not only adds a good deal of easily-obtained color to a garment, but also the acidity of the walnuts themselves work to repel bacteria which could get into the fibers of the garment and cause it to stink or even make the wearer sick. Whether this was actually known to our ancestors in their reasoning for using it as a dye will likely be unknown to us. Three thin blue woad-dyed (isatis tinctoria) stripes have been woven into the cloak, as well. We have also noted from cloak Fragment 84 that stripes, and possibly even checks and/or plaids, of a sort were woven into these cloaks for aesthetic effect. Since this cloak is intended to be representative of a lower-class status, simple stripes were used rather than something more complex and costly. The cloak is then pinned and affixed at the shoulder using a cloak pin. While circular pennanular brooches certainly are more showy and capture our collective "Viking bling" imagination, their numbers are far-outweighed by the numbers of straight pins used on cloaks during this time. Replacing the earlier Fibulae used by Germanic tribes during the end of Rome's advances, these straight pins were often made from bone, wood, antler, or bronze, with the latter being seen here. This example, based off an extant example from Haithabu, is a long, slender bronze pin with a ring affixed at the top. Once the pin has been passed through the fabric of the cloak, a deer leather thong is used to wrap around and secure the pin to the cloak and thus prevent slipping off. Whether these pins were worn with the pointy end facing down or up is unknown to us, though field studies have shown that wearing shorter pins like this with the point facing upward tends to cause the cloak to pull back against the wearer's shoulder and ride up, meaning these shorter pins naturally will pull the point downwards, either from the front - or the back, so wearing it with the point facing down seems to be the most logical and comfortable method at the time. In conclusion, these shorter cloaks are a more cost-effective means to protect one from the environment and cold winter weather, without need for a large, cumbersome doubled-over cloak. Whether these smaller cloaks came into existence from a new-found knowledge of fulling the fabric, thus making the need for larger cloaks that needed to be doubled for warmth obsolete, or purpose-made blankets began to be woven, which negated the need for a garment that served both purposes, and standardized cloaks could begin to be produced, will likely be unknown to us. What we do know is that, when properly fulled to the methods used during the period, a smaller cloak is not only lighter than their larger, doubled counterparts, but also provide just as much warmth as the latter in a smaller package, making them more utilitarian and user-friendly - both for daily life, as well as combat situations. Credit:
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AboutThis part of the site will look at the various aspects of life on Viking Age Danish people. From what they ate, to how they may have fought. Archives
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