For a long period of time, buttoning and fitted hoods were considered garments that fell into the realm of female Medieval clothing, however, as time has progressed the evidence for their wear by men has grown exponentially, especially in working and utility contexts. This particular hood is based off that seen in one of the works within the Speculum Humanae from 1360's Germany, and was worn by a man.
Though his hood lacks any features which denote it as actually bearing buttons, the fitted style in which it was painted makes it clear that the garment likely did bear some form of fasteners to achieve the fitted silhouette seen. The hood has a square bottom in the front, rounded shoulders which fit over the arms in a tailored manner, and a long liripipe, which he has tied around the crown of his head. My reproduction is made from a similarly striped wool, however, due to the thinness of it, the hood also bears a lining of a thin blue tabby-woven wool, as well. The body is fitted around the chest, shoulders, and neck area (though the pattern could be tweaked a little in the future to make it more fitted in the latter region), and this is all made possible by a series of buttons which span from the lower hem to up under the chin. The edge bearing the buttonholes has also been reinforced with woven-in tablet-woven silk trim - a feature not depicted in the original work, but seen on many surviving extant examples of buttoning garments. The shoulders are made to be fitted via a pair of gores inserted into the lower sides to open them up and make them form to the curve of the shoulder area. This is then aided with a series of finger-woven tubular ties made from woad-dyed blue wool yarn. These were looped through the fabric of the hood itself and then braided until they were the proper length. These tie underneath the arms to hold the hood in place. Note, this is a conjectural approach, and while we have no evidence of exactly how these hoods were made to be fitted underneath the arms, ties or narrowares of some form were likely the most probably used for this task.
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Embroidery detail on 14th Century hood.
Seams and treatments based off finds from London and Herjolfsnes, embroidery based off hood decoration seen on 14th Century artwork. "And man, it's just too much,
The streets, they still run with blood, A hundred arms, a hundred years, You can always find me here..." England ; Latter half of the 14th Century. The hood reconstructed here draws inspiration from various period sources and was reconstructed with 14th Century techniques.
It features a fitted body and shoulders, as was common during the latter part of the century, a a feature which can be readily seen on the likes of the Bocksten Man's hood. It also has the quintessential "liripipe" tail coming off the back, which has a multi-piece construction, also like the Bocksten Man's hood. It bears no form of decoration and embroidery, as those were only reserved for certain classes during the 14th Century per sumptuary laws of the time. The hood is made from 2/2 wool twill and has been hand-sewn using period running and overcast stitches found on original garments from the time. |
AboutThis page will focus on the lifestyles of those living in Medieval Europe from approximately the 11th Century through the 14th. Archives
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