To date, several wrap-style garment fragments have been recovered from the Viking Age settlement of Hedeby. These range from very thick, seemingly lined, garments attributed to being part of the famed Klappenrock, to simpler, and more utilitarian designs, often believed to be part of a sort of sleeveless jerkin or vest.
The purpose behind these garments is still unknown, though the two most common theories are as extra winter padding against the elements or as a sort of rudimentary arming garment to go underneath maille armor - or perhaps both. The fragments found that are part of the 'Lodenwams' (or "felted doublet" in rough English terms) were of a semi-fine fulled 2/2 wool twill, or 'Loden' as it is still used today. This type of fabric offers extremely good insulation from cold weather and is in use for winter clothing in Europe to this very day, though now in a more refined form. Of particular interest is the manner in which these pieces are cut, with what appears to be a seam going across the width of the chest from armpit to the outer hem, essentially splitting the front panel into two pieces. It also appears that, even though no sleeve is present now, there never were any sleeves, as the hemmed armhole is very wide and open, allowing another, sleeved, garment to be worn underneath without any binding or too much tightness. No fastenings have been recovered from these fragments, so it is likely, like their fancier Klappenrock cousin, these garments were simply pulled across itself at the chest - like a modern robe - and then belted into place. The reconstruction here is made from a 2/2 wool twill, though unfortunately not nearly as fulled as I would have liked. It is sewn using the same running stitches with overcast hems and treatments as the originals, and features the large armholes and horizontal chest seams, as well. The slits at the bottom, though not present on the Lodenwams fragments, are present on those from the Klappenrock, and though they do not seem like much, assist greatly in the wrapping method of wear on the garment and keep it from pulling in the arm and chest areas when worn. This garment would be correct for nearly any lower or middle-class 10th Century Danish representation. Whether upper-class examples are correct is still a matter of debate as it is likely an upper-class male would have simply worn a Klappenrock instead, and it has been speculated that these were a lower-class attempt to emulate the warrior elite's Klappenrock fashion in some form. Given all of the fragments, which have been attributed to separate garments of the same fashion, are undyed and left plain, it is very likely these were also seen as a utility garment and therefore would not have been seen to any large degree on upper-class, non-worker men. Below is the reproduction, as well as the fragments upon which it is based. Comments are closed.
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AboutThis part of the site will look at the various aspects of life on Viking Age Danish people. From what they ate, to how they may have fought. Archives
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