The modern concept of the average Viking Age male being decked out in fine silks and arms full of jewelry are quite far-fetched from what was the probable reality for many people inhabiting Scandinavia during the period. While the many grave finds do indicate there were considerably rich members of society, these were probably quite rare and would have most likely been viewed as the extreme elites of society. The fact that most of these graves are so rich shows that there was most likely a correlation between their wealth and the fact that they were important enough to be interred under conditions that would preserve their belongings for years to come. Every day life for the average inhabitant of Northern Europe was rough and harsh, so clothing, equipment, and an overall “look” would reflect this. In this study, we will look at the clothing and belongings of the average, lower-class male living in the vicinity of Haithabu during the 10th Century. Most of the items represented here are based directly off of finds from the area and period and will be noted as such, or as interpretations of what could have been used or worn.
We will start with the head and work our way to the feet, so to begin, we will look at the hat style being worn. (See “Hats” article for more information on hats.) The hat worn here is of the “pillbox” variety. This style originated as early as the Roman period and would be used all the way up through the Renaissance. The style here is based off that found in Leens, Netherlands, and is thought to have been the style that the fragment found at Hedeby was originally from. There are several arguments for this style of hat being worn during this period, especially in areas like Denmark, arguments that will be elaborated on in future articles on the subject. The hat is produced from coarse hand-woven wool with a low-quality natural blue woad dye. Since this particular example is of the lower-class style, we opted for the least amount of dyes in the clothing as possible, and the ones we did decide to use we made sure were quite primitive in their shade and technique so as to differentiate between the finely-dyed clothing of higher class individuals. Since the hat was often an accessory rather than a necessity, we decided that it should be one of the only dyed pieces in the kit, as it would give the impression that the wearer was trying to some degree to look more presentable than his societal standing truly was, much in the way we see photographs of Depression-era workers with very worn, often tattered, clothing, but with a decently nice (or at least well-maintained) hat. Next we have the tunic. (See “Tunics” article for more information.) This style is based directly off the fragments recovered at Hedeby and is the most probable interpretation available at this time. This particular example is made from hand-woven, un-dyed wool and features no form of trim or decoration. Contrary to popular belief, it is thought by historians and archaeologists that these depictions of Viking Age men with all types of tablet woven or silk trim all over their garments was probably quite rare, and only reserved for the most high members of Nordic society. The common man would have most likely had little to no trim on his clothing as this would have added a great additional cost and a considerable financial burden. If available, trim would have most likely been scant and would have been of the woolen variety since this was more readily available to lower-class members of society for other clothing. Furthermore, since it can be assumed that most lower-ranking members of society would have only had one set of clothing due to finances, to deck it out with expensive decorations when it was going to be worn every day for hard manual labour would have seemed fruitless, much in the way we would hardly consider wearing a business suit to work outside in the garden today! It should also be mentioned that aside from a fake fur “pile” trim on one tunic, little to no trim in this fashion has been discovered in Haithabu. Whether it was used and reused until it deteriorated, or it was simply not in fashion at that particular place and time we will most likely never know. The tunic features the multiple gussets characteristic of the region in which it was discovered and features not only two gussets on either side, but also one in the front and one in the back, as well. The torso is also made in two separate pieces, again characteristic of the finds from Haithabu. One unique feature to this style of tunic are the slits in the sides. One of the Hedeby tunic fragments displayed this and we have opted to recreate it as such, despite its use being relatively unknown. Perhaps with wear and use we will be able to eventually determine what exactly this was meant for. The tunic is also cut rather closely, despite the numerous gussets around the lower half. While both tight and loose tunic styles have been proposed as being worn at Hedeby, respectively as an “under” and “over” tunic, we also believe that lower-class garments would have been closer-fitting, if for no other reason than to conserve material and to not get in the way of everyday labourious tasks. The length of the tunic has been somewhat debated. While it is theorized that in Pictish culture the tunic length reflected the owner’s wealth, we are unsure if this was also the case with Norse society, however, since the rest of the tunic was produced as a material-conservative design, we have also opted to make it mid-thigh in length rather than nearly knee-length as some others have been proposed. The third piece of clothing worn are the trousers. (See “Trousers” article for more information.) While two styles of trousers are thought to have been worn in Hedeby at this time, one tight and one loose, we have opted for the former rather than the latter. As with the tunic, we suspect lower-rate clothing would have been tighter to save material and reduce “drag” when working. The style worn here are known as that of the “Thorsberg Trousers,” which despite dating considerably earlier than the Viking Age, trouser fragments recovered at Hedeby lead us to believe that trousers similar to these would have been worn well into this period of time, as well. They are, as with the tunic, made from hand-woven, un-dyed wool and are plain in colour. The fit of these trousers is quite unique, as they are fitted tightly from the knee down as well as in the waist, but are kept roomy in the thighs and hips to facilitate movement. A pair of gussets run down the front and up the back and further aid in increasing movement and preventing crotch “blow-outs” which are common with single-seam crotch construction in trousers. The trousers are then paired with a pair of leg wraps, or Winingas as they are thought to have originally been known as. These are woolen wraps that are started at the knee and wrapped around the lower leg to the tips of the toes. Fragments of these, as well as alternate forms of leg protection, were discovered in Hedeby, so these are worn as a direct reflection of that. This particular pair is made from a herringbone-pattern wool and while the basic colour is un-dyed, the accents are dyed to a small degree. This, as with the hat, would signify a small attempt at looking slightly more presentable while still maintaining financial stability. These wraps would have been worn not only to protect the legs when outdoors, but also to keep them warm during the winter or even as a nice fashion accessory. How these were worn is still an archaeological debate, unfortunately. Several metal hooks have been discovered in various Viking Age gravesites which have now been determined as hooks to hold up the leggings. It was thought these were wrapped, starting at the ankle and ending just below the knee, much like WWI or WWII Puttees, with these hooks hooking into the wool and holding them tight, however, recent fragment finds without these hooks has led to further debate. One theory, and a theory we have tested on numerous accounts and have proven to work, is that lower classes wore no hooks, but rather started their wraps at the knee and tightly wrapped before ending at the toes. This style of wrapping leaves no need for hooks as the tightness of the wraps and coarseness of the wool itself binds together and prevents them from unrolling and falling down! After the leg wraps, the feet are then placed into leather shoes, which brings us to our next segment. (See “Shoes” article for more information.) Rather than wearing the leg wraps over the shoes as many later cultures did, they are thought to have been worn inside. This adds even more warmth and protection to the feet and even, depending on the weight of the wool wraps, some degree of arch support (think of them as early insoles)! Since the styles of shoes found at Hedeby are numerous in design, we will focus on the style at hand. This particular style falls under “Shoe Type #7” according to the book “Spurensuche Haithabu” by Kurt Schietzel. This particular style is made from a single piece of leather, rather than multiple pieces. The sole is outlined with room to spare and two “wings” are then added on either side. These are then folded up and sewn up the toe to form the front of the shoe. A heel triangle is made to reduce wear in this area and the edges of it are sewn to the back sides of the shoe and it is complete. Slits are then cut around the ankle and a piece of material (in this case matching leather) is run through them so as to tie the shoe closed. These shoes are made in the “turn-shoe” method, meaning they are made inside out and then turned right-side-out to be made wearable. This means the seams are on the inside and this not only prevents wear on the seams themselves but also makes the shoes less prone to leak. Which brings us to our next topic; these shoes were sealed with a mixture of animal fat and beeswax. This creates sort of an early form of “Sno-Seal,” if you will, and seals the seams of the shoes to some degree. Something few people realize until they actually wear shoes like these is that most folks living during this time must have had wet feet nearly all of the time. Today we have grown accustomed to well-sealed and made shoes that are nearly completely watertight short of stepping in knee-deep water, however, this simply was not the case in earlier years. I have personally experimented with various styles of shoes, both made myself and made by others, hand-stitched and machine-stitched, and they almost all leak. The machine-stitched shoes are less likely, however, where historical accuracy is concerned, these should not be worn in the first place! That said, all of the hand-sewn shoes have leaked, in one form or another. This has led us to the conclusion that people must have simply been used to wet feet, or took measures to lessen this. One example of this is the invention of “Pattens” during the Medieval Era. To our knowledge, however, nothing of this sort existed during the Viking Age. Shoes were also not semi-permanent and the same pair was not worn for years at a time as they are now, either, but they were rather quite disposable and were probably only worn for a matter of a few weeks, months if one was lucky, at a time before wearing out and being replaced. As such, not a great deal of work was put into them other than the necessities. As far as “accessories” go, they are limited, again, reflecting the financial standing of the owner. This only consists of a belt, belt pouch, small utility knife, leather costrel, and a hand axe. These items would have most likely been the basic every day carry items for the average Norse male living in Haithabu. The belt, made from leather with a plain iron buckle, would suspend nearly all of the goods carried since clothing at the time is believed to have lacked any form of pockets. Worn on the belt is a small, circular leather pouch. This would have carried anything from monetary goods to gaming pieces, keys, even small items of food if the carrier deemed it necessary. Also on the belt is a small utility knife. Based very closely from a find uncovered in Haithabu, this knife features a plain wooden grip and a short, stout iron blade. It is carried in a leather sheath suspended from the belt with a simple leather tied loop. While the latter goods were carried on the belt, this example also is equipped with a leather drinking costrel and small axe. To date, we have no definitive knowledge as to how Scandinavians living during the Viking Age transported drinking goods while traveling. One such theory is a leather costrel. These were used both before and after the Viking Age and were extremely simple to make. All that was needed to make one was two pieces of leather in the shape and size desired, these were sewn together and soaked in water until soft. They were then stuffed with something solid yet malleable (such as sand) until they were the proper shape and size and were left to dry. Once this was complete the filler was dumped and the costrel was lined with beeswax to insulate and waterproof it. These are a very useful piece of equipment, granted the carrier doesn’t hit it too hard and crack the beeswax lining or leave it in the hot sun and the lining melts! It is carried over the shoulder with a plain rope. The last piece carried is that of a small utility hand axe. Since our example is of the poorer variety, he carries no fancy weapons to defend himself, but rather this small tomahawk-sized axe. This also doubles as a utility item, as well, as it can be used to chop down small trees to make fire, shelter, etc. While popular media likes to portray even the most average Viking Age male as being bedecked in a myriad of weaponry, the reality is that the “weapons” most men carried were probably simple farm tools brought from home, of which this small axe is a prime example. It has an oak handle and a small forged iron head. The bottom of the handle is wrapped in leather and held in place by a forged tack. While no archaeological evidence exists to prove this, many years of field experience in the wild building shelters, felling trees, etc. has lead me to believe that some form of blister preventative measure would have been necessary during this period. The head is covered with a leather cover tied in place with a length of sinew when the axe is not in use. Again, little to no archaeological proof exists to corroborate this, but it is hard to believe that, given the razor-sharp nature of some of these axes, the carrier was permanently vigilant about not getting cut! Another addition to the outfit is that of a cloak. These would have been essential to anyone living during this time period in order to stay warm and protect oneself from the elements. It was a poncho, winter protection, even blanket or shelter if need be. It was truly a versatile piece of equipment and it has been assumed that nearly everyone living during this period in time would have had one in some variant or another. The cloak displayed here is woven from a coarse brown wool that has been very heavily felted. A 2” fringe was left at the bottom for decoration, though it has been theorized in recent years from researching Mountain Man-era clothing that the fringe could have also served as a type of rudimentary camouflage to break up the movement of the wearer’s legs when trying to be stealthy in situations such as hunting. The length of these cloaks has been theorized as anything from shawl-length to ankle-length, with the most common consensus being that the length depended on the wearer’s wealth and how much material he/she could afford. As a result, this cloak is knee-length. It is just long enough to cover the “essentials,” though still short enough to be considered material-conserving. It is closed with a bronze cloak pin. While pennanular brooches are commonly seen as being depicted in film and by reenactors, simple pins outnumber them in archaeological finds in many instances. These were very simple and could have been made from anything from bronze to wood. This example is bronze and has a simple matching ring at the top. A deer hide thong is looped through this ring and wrapped around the lower half of the pin to secure it in place and prevent it from sliding up and out of the material. While simple, these pins also appear to have been quite dangerous, as one ill-directed motion could result in a hand, arm, chest, or in a very unfortunate, extreme case, face being pierced by the sharp object! This means that a wearer would have had to have been aware of his/her surroundings regularly when wearing one of these devices. Last, but certainly not least, is that of jewelry. As with weaponry, we often have this mental image conjured up of Viking Age men wearing all form of jewelry, from Mjolnir (also known as “Thor’s Hammer”) amulets, to neck torques, and a wide assortment of rings and bracelets. While these certainly did exist and were worn, they were almost certainly reserved for the more rich members of society and would have hardly ever been worn by someone of our example’s stature, as the money required to purchase such goods would have been viewed as unnecessary and could have been put into better farming tools or everyday clothing for the family. Perhaps this is a situation that a raid in the future could remedy… Comments are closed.
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AboutThis part of the site will look at the various aspects of life on Viking Age Danish people. From what they ate, to how they may have fought. Archives
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